Taste

Spiedini Fiamma carries forth a Las Vegas Italian tradition in Summerlin

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Spiedini Fiamma’s meatballs, seafood frutti di mare and chicken parmesan
Photo: Christopher DeVargas
Genevie Durano

If the name Spiedini jogs a memory, it’s because Spiedini Italian Ristorante—helmed by chef Gustav Mauler for 20 years before he retired in 2019—was a beloved fixture in Summerlin. Spiedini stayed open for a few years after Mauler’s retirement but closed permanently during the pandemic.

Now it’s back as the reimagined Spiedini Fiamma, located in the main promenade connecting Rampart Casino with the JW Marriott hotel.

The vibe is coastal Italian, and the new menu items are big on comfort, which room chef Paula Smagacz likens to a “big hug.”

Start your visit with a sparkling Aperol spritz ($14) of prosecco rosé and club soda as you take in the bright blue dining room that evokes the Mediterranean sea, with a mural above the open kitchen by local artist Anne Marie Vadala. If the weather is cooperating, take it outside to the wraparound outdoor patio and be surrounded by lush greenery, waterfalls and koi ponds.

There are small plates for every appetite, from the fragrant saffron mussels ($14) in lemon zest and fresh oregano, to the signature meatballs ($12) in red sauce and ricotta, paired with grilled crostini. If you’re in the red-sauce camp when it comes to Italian food, this will whet your appetite for more, and there are plenty of choices to come.

Spiedini Fiamma is more casual than its fine-dining predecessor, Smagacz says, and to her point, there’s a selection of pizzas that are as easy-breezy as a Margherita ($21) or as complex as the prosciutto and fig ($24), with its Parmesan cream sauce base topped with fresh arugula and drizzled with a balsamic reduction.

“Being in a hotel, some people just come in, grab an appetizer, maybe the saffron mussels or shrimp scampi, or share a pizza at the bar while watching the game,” the chef says.

The vibe might be casual, but Spiedini Fiamma is all business when it comes to classics. The baked rigatoni ($26) and lasagna ($28) are rib-sticking vehicles for Bolognese sauce, bubbling over with ricotta and Parmesan cheeses. The Seafood Frutti di Mare ($25)—a brothy concoction of shrimp, clams, calamari and mussels nestling a bed of squid ink pasta—bolsters the coastal theme. The risotto ($19) takes a vegetarian turn, showcasing spinach, portabella, squash, zucchini, tomato and peppers; shaved Parmesan and microgreens top off the creamy goodness.

If you arrive extra hungry, consider the braised short rib ($34), served with carrot and broccolini and finished off with rib jus. Braised for at least eight hours, the meat is rich and tender at the bone, complemented beautifully by the accompanying cheese polenta.

Come on Sundays and Mondays and partake in one of Smagacz’s favorite offerings, the Italian-style family pot ($50, serves 2-3 people).

“It’s based on a traditional Italian kitchen, where they make sauce or gravy at the end of the week for a big sit-down family supper for the weekend,” she says. “We sear our meatballs and Italian sausage and cook that in the sauce with lots of carrots, onions, bell peppers, garlic and fresh herbs, and just let that simmer. We put our short ribs in there with the stock, too. We serve the sauce in these little blue pots family-style, and each guest gets a bowl of pasta of their choice.”

Of course, you can’t eat an Italian meal without a sweet finish. Tradition lives on here with tiramisu, cannoli and a salted caramel budino ($12 each) on the menu. If you prefer to drink your dessert, opt for the tiramisu or espresso martini ($14 each) and go home with a perfect caffeine/vodka buzz.

SPIEDINI FIAMMA Rampart Casino, 702-869-7790, theresortatsummerlin.com. Sunday-Thursday, 5-9 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 5-10 p.m.

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