For a long stretch, I had to drive round-trip to LA every week. It was exhausting, but one of the great pleasures from these trips was grabbing a rice bowl from Roy Choi’s restaurant Chego and eating it on the road back. Choi is a master of melding flavors, and his bowls are addictive.

Those memories had me excited to try Jumping Rice and Rolls, a new rice-centric shop inside a busy food complex in the southwest Valley. There’s plenty of variety here, different ethnic styles of fried rice, bowls and sushi, along with salads and appetizers.

Some dishes were very good, while others fell flat. Of the fried rice dishes I sampled, Indonesia Jumping Rice ($11) is the winner. It’s spicy with julienned vegetables, flavors that match up well with the Angus beef protein option. American Jumping Rice ($10) features sausage (actually cut-up hot dogs) and bacon, not quite the guilty pleasure I was hoping for.

The Dynamite Bowl ($9) contains a rice cake topped with shrimp, scallops, mushrooms and a yummy mayo-based sauce. I felt like I was eating cheesy rice, and who doesn’t want that? The creamy corn salad ($3) would be a hit at any picnic, with red pepper that penetrates every bite.

Jumping Rice and Rolls might not be the best eats for a late-night road trip, but it’s a solid option any other time.

Jumping Rice and Rolls 9484 W. Flamingo Road #175, 702-360-5867. Daily, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.